If you are feeling stressed with the arrival of your new pup, please imagine how your puppy feels. He or she just lost the comfort of its brothers and sisters and has landed in an unfamiliar home surrounded by new humans and possibly new animals. You are the one who will help it make the transition as quickly and possitively as possible.
Please plan ahead prior to picking up your puppy. Bring a towel with you in case he/she has to go to the bathroom or has motion sickness during the car ride home. If you are coming by yourself, you may want to bring a large box or crate to keep your pup safe. If you would like your puppy to have a bath prior to leaving, please let me know as it is no problem.
The first night in your house is frightening for your pup. He/she is used to sleeping huddled with its siblings, but now he/she will be alone. Comfort him/her by putting a ticking clock or a low-volume radio inside his/her kennel or crate. You may choose initially to put the crate in your room. If he/she stirs, you can comfort it with your hand. If he/she doesn’t settle, you may need to take him/her out to the bathroom.
During your first week together, it is important to give your pup a daily routine. Get him/her used to the crate and move it to where he/she will be sleeping permanently. Encourage him/her to use the crate for rest periods during the day.
As noted in the “Guarantee” page, you should take your pup for a vet check within 2 days, if possible. This appointment should be made as soon as possible so that you can get an appointment. Also note that your vet may want to know how your pup’s appetite is, how his/her bowel movements are, and how it is acting, so you will need a couple days with your pup in order to be able to answer these questions. You should always establish your new puppy with a vet; however, there are many options available for lower-cost vaccinations once your puppy has been established. A few options include:
- Pet Supplies Plus www.petsuppliesplus.com–many locations provide vet clinics on the weekend where you are able to obtain lower-cost vaccinations, wormings, Heartworm meds, Flea/tick meds, microchips, etc.
- Tractor Supply (TSC)
https://www.tractorsupply.com/ –they also have vet clinics on the weekend and provide the same services as Pet Supplies Plus. In addition, you can also purchase your own Parvo/Distemper vaccinations to do yourself. You can also purchase the Bordetella Vaccine to administer yourself - All About Animals
https://allaboutanimalsrescue.org/ –they have several locations and provide low-cost services. In addition, they also provide Spaying/Neutering services–normal cost is $80.
When you take your pup home, he or she will have already been given its first vaccination, which was given at 6 weeks. Your pup will need additional vaccines at 9, 12, & 16 weeks. At 16 weeks, he/she will receive a 1 year Rabies shot. At this point, you should be all set until 1 year from the last shot.* You should also have your pup get the Bordella Vaccine, especially if your pup will be around other dogs or will be boarded.
Note: Your puppy does not have full immunity to many life-threatening infectious diseases until all it’s vaccinations are done.
Your puppy will also have been wormed at 2, 4 & 6 weeks. You should bring a stool sample with you at your first vet appointment to be tested.*
*Note: You will be given a record of when the first vaccination and wormings were given that you should bring with you to your first vet appointment.
You should also begin giving your puppy Heartworm prevention, along with flea/tick treatments beginning at 8 weeks of age. There are many options out there and you should discuss these with your vet to find the best that fits your needs/budget.
Crate training is highly advised. You should purchase a crate big enough for a large dog and block it off until your puppy grows into it. Many crates come with a spacer that makes it easy.
Food: When you pick up your puppy, it will have been eating the Kirkland brand puppy food from Costco. This is a quality food. I will provide you a small bag to use for the first few days. Try not to introduce new food right away as it can cause stomach or intestinal upset. You should feed your puppy 3 times a day for the first few weeks if you can. Put the food down, let him/her eat, and then take it away when your pup finishes. Meal feeding allows you to closely monitor your pup’s food intake. More importantly, it gets its bowels on a regular schedule, which makes housetraining easier. Between 10 and 16 weeks, you should only feed your pup twice per day. Read the back of your package of food to find out how much you should be feeding your pup per day and divide that by the number of times you are feeding. They usually provide you a range. I normally start at the lower end and adjust depending on your pup.
If your pup eats too fast, you may want to purchase a special bowl that will make them eat slowly. Pet stores will have them, but I have also seen them at Bed, Bath & Beyond and Menard’s. Another option that will work is using a muffin pan.
Training: Begin immediately. Your puppy is very smart and loves to learn. Do this when your puppy is tired. I generally use the kibble that you are feeding them. Start by sitting your pup in front of you and feeding him/her 1 kibble at a time. Once they are taking it, start adding in one command at a time. For instance, say “shake” and grab his/her paw, then offer a piece of kibble. Keep doing this and you will be surprised how quickly they will pick it up.
Housetraining: Devote as much time as you can to housetraining your pup right away as it will shorten the length of time it will take to fully housetrain your pup. Before you open your puppy’s crate door in the morning, be dressed and ready to go. Open the door and lead him/her outside as fast as you can. If he/she is big enough and can navigate stairs (assuming you have some), let him/her walk. If he/she is too small, carry him/her down the stairs but let him/her walk the rest of the way. You want him/her to learn how to get to the toileting area. Remember, the four times he/she will want to go to the bathroom are: after waking up, after exercising, after eating, and after/while playing.
Take him/her directly to the area of your yard that you want him/her to use as a bathroom. Say the magic words such as “go potty”, “hurry up”, or even “Star Trek,” but make the words easy to say and make sure everyone in your family uses the same command. Walk back and forth with your puppy in the toileting area and repeat the phrase. When he/she goes to the bathroom, reward it with verbal praise, a hug, or even a food treat. If you are enthusiastic, your puppy will quickly learn to go to the bathroom on command. If you fail to give him/her adequate thanks for his/her accomplishment and simply snatch him/her up and head back in the house, expect to spend longer training him/her.
During your first week together, spend time with your puppy but also allow him/her some free time. Let him/her explore his/her new world by himself/herself so he/she develops confidence. If you try to direct him/her constantly, or shelter him/her too much, he/she may become an insecure, clingy puppy who later develops separation anxiety when left alone. At this tender age, you need to limit your puppy’s exercise according to his/her endurance, which is usually less than 15 minutes.
The first week is also the period when everyone in your family needs to learn what they can and can’t do with a tiny puppy. Though puppies aren’t as fragile as babies, they can still be injured. Young children should hold the puppy only while sitting on the floor. If they do drop him/her, he/she won’t get hurt. Pups should be introduced to other pets slowly, under direct supervision.
The more you socialize your puppy, the better adjusted he/she will be as an adult. Introduce him/her to people of different shapes and sizes, ones wearing hats or beards, as well as loud and quiet children. It’s also time to get him/her used to being handled. Touch him/her all over—rub his/her ears and put your finger down his/her ear canals, look into his/her eyes, open his/her mouth, rub his/her teeth and gums, tickle his/her belly, and play with his/her toes. Reward him/her every time he/she allows you to do these things without putting up a fuss. This constructive mauling has a purpose. If you do it right, you will be able to pull anything out of his/her mouth, treat his/her infected eye with drops, and trim his/her toenails without a word of objection from him/her.
Of course, feel free to contact me if you need further clarification or simply have questions or concerns or help 🙂